The Horseshoe

When I was a kid growing up in Central Illinois, lunch out with my father was always so incredibly important to me because it was our time to bond and discuss the things that were happening in our lives. We would only ever order one dish when we went out to lunch together. “Two hamburger Horseshoe’s please” my dad would say to the server. Horseshoe? you might ask; the name doesn’t really invoke the tastebuds of someone who’s not from the Springfield, Illinois area, but believe me, this regional dish is an absolute home run that the locals swear by! The Horseshoe is not your average open-faced sandwich and an absolute monster of a meal that’s as much a part of Springfield’s identity as Honest Abe. 

Envision This: Two thick pieces of Texas toast laid as a base, followed by juicy meat (of your choice), then the whole plate covered in crispy crinkle-cut fries, then smothered in a creamy beer cheese sauce… hungry yet? It is gluttony on a plate, and it’s been stuffing Midwesterners bellies since the 1920’s. But where did this incredible meal originate from, and what makes it so popular in the city of Springfield? Let’s take a walk down history lane and uncover the origins of this behemoth of a sandwich.

The Horseshoe was conceived at The Old Leland Hotel- sometimes styled Hotel Leland- which opened in 1867 on Springfield’s main drag at the corner of Sixth Street and Capitol Avenue, with a stunning view of the Illinois Capitol building just down the street. The beautiful and upscale hotel was home to many “elaborate functions” in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. A fire, however, destroyed the top two floors in 1908 and the Springfield Chamber of Commerce headed a new company to own the hotel and reopened it in 1911. Edward O’Perry who was originally part of the management team later bought the hotel outright (Sangamon County Historical Society).

History tells us that Chef Joseph Schweska invented the Horseshoe at the Old Leland Hotel in 1928 after getting pressure from his bosses to “spice” up the menu. Chef Joseph went home to discuss his assignment with his wife Elizabeth. She had just come across an old family recipe for Welsh rarebit and encouraged Chef Joseph to integrate that into his dish (Springfield Convention & Visitors Bureau). The ingredients for that original Welsh rarebit included near beer (prohibition), flour, cayenne pepper, powdered mustard, Worcestershire sauce and English Cheese (Midwest Living Editors). Chef Joseph was born in Hungary in 1901 and immigrated to Springfield with his family soon after. His work in the hospitality industry began in 1918 while working in the St. Nicholas Hotel in Springfield. He started at the Leland Hotel in 1927 as a butcher, before accepting the position of Chef a year later. Chef Joseph’s creation was named the Horseshoe because of the shape the original open-faced sandwich took on. He used a horseshoe cut of ham steak, the bread he used and the hot platter the original was served on was the anvil, he used a whole potato cut in eight slices to make the nails and the cheese sauce was the glue to hold it together. The Horseshoe was an absolute hit in Springfield right away with people coming from all over the region to sample the dish. It wasn’t until the 1939 Christmas Edition of the State Journal Register that Chef Joseph finally revealed his secret recipe. 

Another man, Steve Tomko, gets at least a shred of the credit for, if nothing else the popularity of the Horseshoe. Steve was a dishwasher at the Leland Hotel in 1928 and a friend of Chef Joseph. What’s Cooking America discussed how the former dishwasher grew up in the culinary industry and went on to be a Chef at many different Springfield establishments in the 1940s, 50s and 60s building popularity for the dish with every stop. In 1956 Chef Steve made a huge change to the original dish on the menu at The Red Lion in Springfield by converting the Welsh rarebit sauce into a “zippy cheese sauce” which has stuck with the dish since then (McGee). 

Nowadays almost every restaurant in the Springfield area has their own take on this timeless Midwestern Classic. While the idea of the Horseshoe remains the same (bread, meat, fries, cheese sauce) the presentation and the proteins can differ. Protein options can include ham (the original), hamburger, buffalo chicken strips, corned beef, pastrami, grilled chicken, Italian sausage, bacon, breaded tenderloin, Walleye and some even replace protein totally with a vegetable melody in its place. If the Horseshoe sounds overwhelming to you, I get it, it’s a massive undertaking. That’s why most places serve a half order, known as the Ponyshoe. There is also another popular rendition to this dish known as the Breakfast Shoe. This dish features a base of French toast, with sausage patties or bacon, followed by a mound of hashbrowns doused in a thick country gravy. If you eat this for breakfast, you won’t need another meal until the evening for sure!

The Horseshoe holds significant cultural importance in Springfield, Illinois as it represents a beloved local culinary tradition that highlights the area’s unique identity. Personally, growing up in the area, I would always recommend the Horseshoe to friends and family who came to visit. I was so proud that this meal was created in my “backyard” and I was always assured they would be blown away with the first bite they consumed. Life took me away from Central Illinois twenty-two years ago, but I still go back for a yearly visit. Now I get to bring my son back with me. My son and I get to go out for those special lunches with my father now, and my father will tell my son stories from when I was a youth. As you go through life, some things stay the same, like the love for your father and the fond memories you’ve made together eating your favorite dish. Other things change, like our order when we go to lunch together now “Three hamburger Horseshoes please.”  The dish stands out as a source of pride for locals much the same way as New England Clam Chowder, Cincinnati Chili, or a Philadelphia Cheesesteak. The Horseshoe is a hallmark of Springfield’s food culture, reflecting Midwest values of hearty, filling, comfort food. Many Springfield and Central Illinois residents, in general, have fond memories of eating Horseshoes at family gatherings and local diners. For decades the Horseshoe has brought visitors to Springfield, often mentioned in the same breath with the Abraham Lincoln historical sites, making it a must try if you ever find yourself in “The Land of Lincoln.” These factors combined make the Horseshoe more than just a meal; it’s a huge piece of Springfield’s history and heritage that strengthens local bonds and attracts outsiders to experience a taste of the city’s culture.

Works Cited

Springfield Convention & Visitors Bureau. “Horseshoe Recipe.”  Visit Springfield Illinois, https://visitspringfieldillinois.com/. Accessed 08/26/24.

Midwest Living Editors. “Springfield Horseshoe Sandwich.” Midwest Living, December 16, 2023, https://www.midwestliving.com/recipe/sandwiches/springfield-horseshoe-sandwich/. Accessed 08/26/24.

McGee, Tom. “Horseshoe Recipe and History.” What’s Cooking America, December 28, 2008, https://whatscookingamerica.net/history/sandwiches/horseshoesandwich.htm. Accessed 08/26/24.

Sangamon County Historical Society. “Leland Hotel.” SangamonLink, July 8, 2016, https://sangamoncountyhistory.org/wp/leland-hotel/. Accessed 08/26/2024.